ON the most bruising summer days it’s hard to imagine ever staring down a stove again. Those are the times when stirring sugar into cold tea feels like all the cooking anyone can handle — and that sweetened drink seems like all the nourishment anyone will ever need. After all, the body can burn spare fat cells for days, but it hits real trouble after a few hours without liquid.
No wonder the right summer drink at the right moment feels like a lifeline and can stamp itself on the memory for years. What follows is a series of summer-drink memories brought back from impressively hot places like Iraq, Mexico and Manhattan.
All but one ends with a recipe for a favorite summer refresher, and the one that doesn’t is about beer. Even when the temperature passes 90 it’s difficult to argue that opening a beer constitutes cooking, but the results can be more satisfying than some things that take up several pages in a cookbook. -- PETE WELLS
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